Should i let my catnip flower

It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Besides Nepeta cataria , there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:. The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not.

Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places.

An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.

Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. This also can encourage further blooming. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil.

They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth. Catnip will readily spread on its own. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant.

The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant.

Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.

Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line.

Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones.

And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. To propagate by cuttings, snip off the growing tips or leaf tips, dip in rooting hormone and then plant in a sterile medium. Keep your cuttings moist, not wet. It can become invasive if you are not watchful.

You can start seeds indoors 8 weeks before your last frost. Barely cover the seeds and keep them moist but not wet. Germination should occur in 7 to 10 days.

You can set your plants out in your garden after all danger of frost has passed. You can start harvesting leaves when your plants reach a height of 8 inches and continue harvesting throughout the growing season. The best time of day to harvest your leaves is late morning after the dew has dried. Store your dried catnip in tightly sealed, glass containers in a cool, dry place with no sunlight. To make catnip tea, bring your water to a boil and transfer to a non-metal teapot.

Steep for five minutes or until the tea reaches your desired strength, strain out the herbs and enjoy! How often can we give catnip to our cat — is it OK for daily use or should it be given sparingly? In addition to being an herb lady, I am also a cat lady. A stimulant like catnip should only be given to cats as a special treat, no more than a few times a week.

The chemicals in the catnip stimulate the brains of cats and too much stimulation can result in brain injury. My catnip hates being transplanted. I can only grow them. Also they dont flower. In some plants the leaves have started curling …seems like a bug or something. Local home and garden stores carry both catnip seeds and small catnip plants ready for planting.

Your local pet store might even carry seeds or plants. Plant seeds directly in the garden in spring. Catnip seeds can be sown outdoors only during the spring. You should begin to see sprouts after this period. Sow seeds indoors in spring or fall. Plant them in small individual pots or in a seed trough or bed. Make sure they get enough sunlight, or they will get leggy. Water them well as they germinate. Transplant outdoors in spring or when there is no danger of frost. Seeds sown in the fall tend to yield a denser, bushier crop of plants.

Part 2. Plant in full sun, unless you live in a hot, dry location. Catnip prefers full sun in most locations. If you live in a hot, dry climate, consider an area where plants will have some shade from the afternoon sun.

It will still need at least six hours of full sun, but in locations in the south, the sun at its highest and hottest could damage leaves. Alternatively, you can grow it indoors away from a sunlit window if you have access to high output fluorescent plant grow lights. Space plants 18 to 20 inches Catnip, like most herbs, will thrive in poor soil. Catnip will grow in just about any soil, but sandier soil tends to yield more aromatic plants.

After a couple weeks, or after you see that the plants have adjusted to transplanting and are starting to grow, water only when the soil has dried out a few inches below the surface. Consider planting in pots. Once established, catnip can grow aggressively, and can take over an entire garden. To keep it from invading your yard, grow it in a controlled garden, such as one with permanent stone dividers. Placing the plants in containers beneath the soil will help confine and control their roots, preventing them from wandering throughout your garden.

Look for shoots and new spouts that might try to grow beyond the pot. Part 3. Allow soil to dry out between watering. Catnip plants like drier soil, and root rot can set in if the soil is too moist.

When you water, thoroughly soak the soil to saturate the roots. Let the soil dry out completely, and test it out by touching a finger to it before watering. Catnip plants are fairly hardy and quite drought-resistant, so you should be more concerned about over-watering than not watering them enough.

Shear and deadhead plants to promote new growth. After your plant's first flower blooms finish, remove the spent flowers. Shear back the plants by one-third to promote new growth and a new bloom of flowers. Remove any dead or dried leaves regularly. Divide root systems in the spring or fall. Dig up a cluster of plants with at least two to three stalks, or remove them from their pot if you used a container.

Soak the root ball to the point of complete saturation. Use a clean trowel or garden knife to divide the root cluster in half, then replant each new plant. Dividing plants can help control overgrowth, renew fading plants, or simply allow you to share a plant with a friend. Keep your kitty from damaging it or nearby plants. Cats are of course attracted to catnip plants, and love to nip at their leaves and lay in plant beds.

If using containers, avoid positioning pots in places where they might easily be knocked over or broken. Harvest and air dry leaves. To harvest, trim down a stalk to its base, or just above a leaf joint, or cut off the whole plant at the base. Cutting just above a joint, or where a leaf or leaves spring from the stalk, will promote more rapid new growth. Air drying is the best drying method for preserving catnip leaves.

For whole plants, hang them upside down in a cool location for a few weeks. Do your best to keep your cat away from your drying leaves.